Lusaka
Day 18 – Lusaka to Livingstone: The Slow Way South
A woman on the bus couldn’t understand why we weren’t on a plane. I told her I had come to see the country between the places, not just the places, and to follow the old lines across it by land. She looked at me as if I were simply slow, and decided I was mad. She may have had a point. The bus was the UBZ, the one everyone [...]
Day 17 – Lusaka: A Guest in the City
Our taxi driver would not go to the market on his own. The reception had told us not to go alone either, so Bwembya drove us and came with us, and somewhere in the first ten minutes he admitted that he himself rarely comes here, because he finds it dangerous. We had hired a guide to the market who was as wary of it as we were. Soweto [...]
Day 16 – Mfuwe to Lusaka: Plans Are Made to Be Changed
Plans are made to be changed. The original plan was six hundred kilometres of the Great East Road on a local bus, a full day of dust, tarmac and endless African savannah. That morning we heard that a jackknifed truck was blocking the Great East Road near the Luangwa Bridge, with traffic stopped in both directions and no clear idea of [...]