Nkhata Bay
Day 13 – Nkhata Bay to Mfuwe: The Seam Between Two Countries
The alarm went at four, and we left at half past, into a night with a huge moon hanging over it. I was exhausted and could not sleep, and I did not much want to; the first hour of road in the dark, the lake somewhere off to the side and the moon over everything, was one of the strange, good parts of the day. This was the one we had been [...]
Day 12 – Nkhata Bay: Three Candles and a Drum
The first morning in eleven days with nowhere to go. We woke in the wooden stilt house out over the lake, the veranda, the hammock, the water right there, and for a while did nothing about any of it, which was the whole point. This was the first real stop of the trip, and after the train and the border and the twenty-two hairpins, waking [...]