South Luangwa National Park
Day 15 – South Luangwa: Learning to Look
On the second morning I brought the camera. The day before, I had gone out with binoculars and a phone, the way you do when you are still just gawping at everything. Today I took the proper kit, a Sony ZV-E10 with a 70–350mm telephoto lens, the camera I mostly use for my video podcasts, and something shifted. I spent the day actually [...]
Day 14 – South Luangwa: A Guest in Their World
We were up at five, a light breakfast at half five, out before six into the cold on an open vehicle, the last stars going out. The first safari of the trip was not a drive but a walk. Malama, our guide, took us into the park on foot, with an armed man alongside him, and the whole speed of things changed. A walking safari is not about [...]
Day 13 – Nkhata Bay to Mfuwe: The Seam Between Two Countries
The alarm went at four, and we left at half past, into a night with a huge moon hanging over it. I was exhausted and could not sleep, and I did not much want to; the first hour of road in the dark, the lake somewhere off to the side and the moon over everything, was one of the strange, good parts of the day. This was the one we had been [...]