Chalaadi Glacier
Ushguli to Mestia – Stones, Ice and Shadows in Svaneti
The morning began in the rarefied air of Ushguli, a village that pretends to be timeless and almost succeeds. Horses whinnied in the distance, their breath clouding in the cold like restless spirits. Lorena and I rose early, stepping into a silence broken only by the faint trickle of the Enguri River, still swollen from the night’s [...]