Tracks to Trails: A Rail and Hiking Journey from the Balkans to Georgia’s Caucasus

From Tracks to Trails – August 2025, this travel from the Balkans to the Caucasus, will cross Eastern Europe by train and hiking through Georgia’s remote mountain regions. From Sofia to Mestia, through night trains, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable trails this route is for those seeking stories off the beaten path.

The journey starts from Dublin with a flight to Sofia, Bulgaria. From there, it’s an epic rail route through the Balkans and Anatolia: the legendary Sofia–Istanbul Express, the high-speed train to Ankara, and then the romantic, slow-paced Dogu Express to Kars, deep in eastern Turkey. A scenic bus ride brings you across the border into Georgia — a country where medieval towers meet snow-capped peaks.

But the real heart of the adventure lies in the mountains: a 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli, through the dramatic Svaneti region. Expect glacial rivers, ancient stone villages, and soaring Caucasus ridgelines — all while staying in cozy guesthouses and tasting Georgia’s rich food and wine culture.

The journey wraps up in the vibrant streets of Tbilisi, Georgia’s eclectic capital, before returning home to Dublin. In just under two weeks, you’ll cross five countries, ride historic trains, hike wild trails, and witness some of the most jaw-dropping scenery in Europe and beyond.

Trip Highlights:

• Cross 5 countries overland: Ireland, Bulgaria, Turkey, Georgia, and back
• Ride the iconics Balkan Express from Sofia to Istanbul, the Ankara Ekspresi from Istanbul to Ankara, the Dogu Express from Ankara to Kars and the Silkland Express from Tbilisi to Zugdidi
• Trek for 4 days through the remote Svaneti mountains from Mestia to Ushguli
• Explore the cultural contrasts of Sofia, Istanbul, Ankara, Tbilisi and Batumi
• Taste Georgian wine, Turkish tea, and Balkan street food
• Stay in family-run guesthouses and mountain homestays
• Relax in the historic hamam baths of Istanbul and the sulfur baths of Tbilisi
• Travel slowly and off the beaten track

Day 1: Dublin to Sofia (Flight)

• Flight: Depart from Dublin Airport to Sofia, Bulgaria.
• Ryanair FR5203 | Operated by Buzz. Ryanair. Departing Dublin, 19:10. Arriving at Sofia, 00:50. It arrives one day later. It is a direct flight, lasting 3 hours and 40 minutes.
• Arrival: Arrive in Sofia and check into the accommodation.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Day 2: Sofia to Istanbul (Overnight Train, Balkan Express)

• Morning: Enjoy a leisurely breakfast and some sightseeing in Sofia. Explore Sofia’s city centre, visiting landmarks like Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Vitosha Boulevard, and Roman ruins.
• Evening: Board the Sofia-Istanbul Express night train at 18:40 from Sofia Central Station. The train arrives at Istanbul’s Halkalı station at 09:56 the following morning. Reservations are compulsory and can be made at the station.
• Accommodation: Train

Day 3: Istanbul to Ankara (Overnight Train, Ankara Ekspresi)

• Morning/Afternoon: Leave the baggage at the Halkalı station and use the Marmaray metro line to visit the city (Hagia Sophia, Sultanahmet, Haman bath, local street food).
• Evening: Take the train to Ankara. The train departs Istanbul Halkalı at 22:00 and, barring any delays, arrives in Ankara at 06:58 the following morning after covering a distance of 576 kilometres (352 miles).
• Accommodation: Train

Day 4: Ankara to Kars (Overnight Train, Dogu Express)

• Morning/Afternoon: Leave the baggage at the Ankara station and visit the city.
• Evening: Board the Doğu Ekspresi (Eastern Express) from Ankara to Kars. The train departs at 18:00 and arrives at 20:10 the day after. The journey takes about 26 hours for 1310 km.
• Accommodation: Train

Day 5: Kars

• Evening: Arrive in Kars (also recognised as little Siberia) and transfer to our accommodation.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Day 6: Kars to Tbilisi

• Morning: Take a bus from Kars to the border gate. After passing through the border gate, take a Marshrutka to Tbilisi from Akhaltsikhe. The journey takes approximately 9 / 12 hours.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Day 7: Tbilisi

• Morning/Evening: Explore Tbilisi’s Old Town, including sites like the Narikala Fortress and sulfur baths.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Day 8: Tbilisi to Mestia via Zugdidi (Silkland Express)

• Morning: Take the train at 08:20 from Tbilisi-pass (6 hr 48 min) to Zugdidi 15:08. From Zugdidi Railway Station, take a shared minibus to Mestia (alternatives: shared minibus, private transfer, flights Tbilisi-Mestia)
• Evening: Arrive in Mestia and prepare for your trekking adventure.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Trekking from Mestia to Ushguli

Embark on a four-day trek through the stunning Svaneti region. This is one of the most iconic multi-day hikes in the Caucasus, suitable for intermediate trekkers. It can be self-guided (well-marked trails, locals used to hikers). Explore Mestia, visit the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography.

Day 9: Mestia to Zhabeshi (~16 km, 7 hours)

• • Distance: 16 km | Ascent: ~450m
  • Duration: 7 hours
  • Landscape: Rolling hills, alpine meadows, small rivers, and towers in Mestia.

• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
• Highlights: Scenic trails through forests and meadows; overnight in Zhabeshi.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Day 10: Zhabeshi to Adishi (~12 km, 6 hours)

• Distance: 12 km | Ascent: ~600m
• Duration: 6 hours
• Landscape: Wooded slopes, river crossings, traditional Svan towers.
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Highlights: Panoramic views of Mount Tetnuldi; overnight in Adishi.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Day 11: Adishi to Iprali (~18 km, 8 hours)

• Distance: 18 km | Ascent: ~800m / Descent: 1100m
• Duration: 8 hours
• Landscape: Glaciers, Adishi river crossing (sometimes on horseback), panoramic high passes.
• Difficulty: Hardest day, high altitude (max elevation 2,826m  mand long (18/19 km)
• Highlights: Panoramic views of Mount Tetnuldi; overnight in Adishi.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Day 12: Iprali to Ushguli (~12 km, 6 hours)

• Distance: 12 km | Ascent: ~400m
• Duration: 6 hours
• Landscape: Open valleys, hilltop views of Ushguli’s medieval towers.
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Highlights: Crossing the Adishi Glacier river; arrival in Ushguli, one of Europe’s highest inhabited villages.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Day 13: Ushguli – Mestia

• Morning / Evening: Explore Ushguli, visiting landmarks like the Lamaria Church.
• Afternoon: Take a shared minibus or private transfer back to Mestia
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Day 14: Mestia to Batumi

• Morning: Take a transfer to continue to Batumi. The journey by minibus can take up to 5/6 hours. Departure at 4 pm. Arrive at 9 pm. Alternative: Mestia-Zugdidi by minibus, Train Zugdidi – Samtredia 16:55 – 18:56. Train Samtredia – Kutaisi Airport Station 19:10 – 19:21 Kutaisi Airport Station – Batumi 20:26 – 22:13.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Day 15: Batumi 

• Morning / Evening: Visit Batumi
• Accommodation: Hotel

Day 16: Batumi to Dublin via Istanbul

Practical Information

Accommodation

• Mestia & Ushguli: Family-run guesthouses offering meals and basic amenities.

• Tbilisi: Options range from budget hostels to boutique hotels.

Gastronomy

• Must-Try Dishes: Khinkali (dumplings), Khachapuri (cheese-filled bread), and local wines.

• Dining: Tbilisi boasts a vibrant food scene with numerous restaurants and cafes.

Currency

• Local Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL).

• Exchange: ATMS are widely available; credit cards are accepted in cities.

Safety

• General: Georgia is considered safe for travellers.

• Regions to Avoid: Advised against travel to South Ossetia and Abkhazia due to political tensions.

What to Pack

• Trekking Gear: Hiking boots, weather-appropriate clothing, and a backpack.

• Trekking Essentials:
  • Lightweight hiking boots (broken-in!)
  • Trekking poles
  • Daypack with rain cover
  • Layers (nights get chilly even in August)
  • Waterproof jacket and pants
  • Water purification tablets/filter
  • Headlamp, snacks, refillable bottle
  • Blister kit + basic meds
  • Sunscreen + hat
  • Power bank

• Essentials: Travel insurance

Transportation

• Domestic Flights: Tbilisi to Mestia flights are available but may be weather-dependent.

• Local Transport: Marshrutkas (minibuses) and taxis are common; car rentals are available.

Join us!

Contact: mp@mauriziopittau.it