Lamaria church
Iprali to Ushguli – Between Glaciers and Ghosts of Villages
The last day of the trek has a deceptive gentleness to it. Twelve kilometres, a mere four hundred metres of ascent, five or six hours on the road. After the crucible of the Chkhunderi Pass and the delirium of rivers without bridges, it should have been easy. But endings have their own gravity, their own weight of expectation. From [...]