Ghorepani to Ghandruk – A Dance with Gravity

Sometimes, skipping an early-morning hike is not a failure of spirit but a victory of foresight. I had already greeted the Himalayan pantheon from Poon Hill the evening before—alongside my ever-faithful roommate and the indomitable Silvia—so I let the others climb at 4:30 AM with their headlamps flickering like fireflies chasing enlightenment. I, instead, chose warmth, stillness, and the knowledge that this day would not be gentle.

We had breakfast, laced up our boots with ceremonial solemnity, and departed from Ghorepani into the kind of ascent that makes your thighs question your life choices. We climbed toward the Deurali Pass (3210m), the highest point of our trek, flanked by stone steps that seemed designed by someone who had never met a tired human being.

It’s not just hiking—it’s a stairway to lung expansion. Each switchback brought new rewards: glimpses of Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, and the ever-enigmatic Machapuchare, the “Fish Tail” peak that no human has ever summited (legend says the gods don’t want visitors).

Three breaks later—each one a full-body negotiation—we arrived at Tadapani. A place whose name literally means “far water,” where we embraced the comforts of lentils, ginger tea, and the kind of fatigue that makes food taste earned. Stefano’s group, opting for a slower pace, stayed behind. We—the “ambitious squad”—forged on.

Then came the descent. And what a descent it was: through a rhododendron forest that must be a fever dream in full bloom. Even in late April, the remaining clusters of red and pink blossoms gave the trail an otherworldly vibe. The moss-covered trunks, birdsong above, and a cliffside that flirted shamelessly with the concept of gravity kept our senses both delighted and on edge.

As the altitude dropped, the knees began to protest. It wasn’t just the distance—it was the relentless 1800 meters of vertical descent that carved its way into our joints and pride. One brave soul from our group misstepped, later discovering he’d fractured his fifth metatarsal. A minor tragedy, but he powered through the day like an epic hero who’d misplaced his cape.

We were battered but euphoric when we arrived at the lovely BS Hotel in Ghandruk—a charming Gurung village nestled at 1940 meters. Some of us wandered the village, sipping warm masala tea on breezy terraces; others nursed their joints with cold beers and weary grins. The panorama was soothing, like a reward from the gods for not tumbling off a cliff.

Dinner was served hot and traditional. Laughter echoed as we played our now-daily ritual of card games. Outside, the mountains watched in silence. Inside, we felt accomplished, humbled, and a little bit mythical ourselves.

About the Region

Ghandruk is one of the largest Gurung settlements in Nepal, a community known for its fierce loyalty and historic role as elite soldiers in the British Gurkha regiments. The village offers sweeping views of Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, and Machapuchare, and serves as both a cultural stop and a natural sanctuary. With traditional stone houses, terraced fields, and warm hospitality, it’s one of the highlights of the Annapurna short trekking circuit.