Phewa Lake

Day Four. Kathmandu to Pokhara. This kind of transition feels seamless at least on paper: a 25-minute flight, a quick drive, a day of aquatic adrenaline and sacred islets. But in Nepal, time doesn’t flow—it sort of eddies and churns, like the rivers we were about to ride. We woke up at the kind of hour usually reserved for long-haul [...]