About the Journey | The Great Africa Traverse

An Independent Overland Journey Through Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe

Duration: 22 days
Period: July – August 2026
Route: Dar es Salaam → Zanzibar → TAZARA Railway → Mbeya → Livingstonia → Lake Malawi → South Luangwa → Lusaka → Livingstone → Victoria Falls → Chobe
Countries: Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia
Transport: commercial flight, ferry, dhow, TAZARA train, dala-dala, shared taxi, motorbike taxi, private car, light aircraft, long-distance bus, safari vehicle, kayak, raft, and above all a great deal of walking.

The Great Africa Traverse began with a line on a map.

Actually, with three of them.

The first was the TAZARA Railway, the 1,860-kilometre railway built in the 1970s between Tanzania and Zambia, one of the great infrastructure projects of post-colonial Africa.

The second belonged to David Livingstone, whose journeys across this part of the continent eventually brought him to the waterfall he named Victoria Falls in 1855.

The third was the grandest and most impossible of all: the old European dream of linking Cape Town to Cairo, a line that was never completed but left railways, bridges and fragments scattered across the continent.

I wanted to follow those lines slowly, overland, and see what existed between the places that normally appear as dots on an itinerary.

For 22 days, Lorena and I travelled from the Indian Ocean to the Zambezi, through Tanzania, Malawi and Zambia, with crossings into Zimbabwe and Botswana. We travelled independently, carrying our own bags and arranging much of the journey as we went.

It did not unfold according to plan.

That became part of the point.

The TAZARA was delayed before we even boarded it. A planned second night in Livingstonia disappeared. A descent from the escarpment that should have been on foot became a drive. Public transport gave way to a private car for the long crossing from Lake Malawi to South Luangwa. On the day we should have taken the bus, a jackknifed lorry closed the Great East Road, and after days of insisting on travelling overland we flew from Mfuwe to Lusaka instead.

Then we got back on a bus.

A journey conceived around old railway lines became, in practice, an education in changing plans without changing direction.

Welcome to the Great Africa Traverse.

The Route

Days 1–2 | Dublin → Dar es Salaam

After flying via Dubai, we arrived in Dar es Salaam, our starting point on the Indian Ocean. What was meant to be little more than a staging post became our first encounter with East Africa: markets, ferries, churches, heat and the restless energy of Tanzania’s largest city.

Days 3–6 | Zanzibar and the Swahili Coast

By ferry from Dar es Salaam to Stone Town, then by dala-dala to Zanzibar’s east coast.

We explored Stone Town, Prison Island and Nakupenda before slowing down around Bwejuu, where beaches, fishing villages, seaweed farming and encounters with local people gave us a different view of the island.

Then a change to the TAZARA timetable sent us unexpectedly back to Dar.

Days 7–8 | The TAZARA Railway

We boarded the TAZARA Railway in Dar es Salaam and travelled southwest towards Mbeya in a first-class sleeper. For hundreds of kilometres, Tanzania passed outside the window: stations, villages, savannah and mountains.

Late, slow and magnificent, the train carried us from the Indian Ocean lowlands into the Southern Highlands. And it began rewriting our itinerary along the way.

Days 9–12 | Mbeya → Malawi → Livingstonia → Nkhata Bay

From Mbeya we crossed the Songwe–Kasumulu border into Malawi and followed Lake Malawi to Chitimba, before climbing the 22 hairpins to Livingstonia by boda-boda.

After a night high above the lake at the Mushroom Farm, we travelled south via Mzuzu to Nkhata Bay. Here, at Butterfly Space, we finally stopped moving for a day: kayaking, snorkelling, exploring the town and experiencing life along one of Africa’s great lakes.

Days 13–15 | Nkhata Bay → South Luangwa National Park

Our longest road journey took us nearly 700 kilometres from Nkhata Bay through Lilongwe, across the Mchinji–Mwami border into Zambia and on via Chipata to Mfuwe.

We spent three nights beside the Luangwa River at Flatdogs Camp, exploring South Luangwa National Park on foot and by safari vehicle. It became one of the wildlife highlights of the journey.

Days 16–18 | Mfuwe → Lusaka → Livingstone<

We broke our overland rule once. A jackknifed lorry had shut the Great East Road near the Luangwa Bridge, so instead of losing a day to it we flew from Mfuwe to Lusaka. A delay at Mfuwe Airport produced an unexpected encounter with Zambian President Hakainde Hichilema.

In Lusaka we explored Soweto Market, visited the elephant nursery, tried traditional Zambian food and stopped at the Freedom Statue.

Then it was back to overland travel: a full day aboard a UBZ bus carried us south through Zambia to Livingstone, with the railway running beside us for much of the way.

Days 19–22 | Victoria Falls → Zambezi → Botswana → Home

Livingstone became our base for the final stage.

We experienced Victoria Falls from both Zambia and Zimbabwe, crossed the historic bridge on foot, rafted the Zambezi through the Batoka Gorge and returned to the same river that evening for a sunset cruise. On the river safari, the boat put us briefly ashore on Impalila Island, the eastern tip of Namibia and the unexpected sixth country of the trip.

A final border crossing took us into Botswana for Chobe National Park, before our last morning at the Livingstone Museum brought the journey back to one of the figures who had inspired it.

Then we headed to the airport. For the first time in three weeks, there was no next African road.

What Changed Along the Way

The route we travelled was not the route I had planned.

That distinction matters.

The original itinerary had included more public transport through Malawi, two nights at Livingstonia, a walk down the escarpment, a bus from Mfuwe to Lusaka, a different programme in Lusaka and separate days for the two sides of Victoria Falls.

Almost none of that survived intact.

But the larger route did.

Dar es Salaam → Zanzibar → TAZARA → Malawi → South Luangwa → Lusaka → Livingstone → Victoria Falls → Chobe.

That is perhaps the most useful lesson from the journey: protect the direction, not the itinerary.

A good independent itinerary gives you enough structure to keep moving and enough freedom to abandon the structure when reality offers something better.

Three Lines Across Africa

Looking back, the journey was held together by the same three ideas that started it.

The TAZARA Railway represented the Africa of independence: a railway built with Chinese assistance to give landlocked Zambia an alternative route to the sea.

David Livingstone represented the older geography of nineteenth-century exploration, missionary journeys, mapping and the European encounter with places that were already known, named and inhabited long before Europeans arrived.

And Cape to Cairo represented perhaps the most audacious line of all: the colonial fantasy of joining Africa from south to north by railway.

We followed fragments of all three.

But travelling overland also revealed what those lines on old maps leave out.

The real journey was between them.

It was Gift driving us down from Livingstonia. Mama Fiskani making breakfast above Lake Malawi. A taxi driver buying second-hand shoes in Soweto Market. A Zambian ranger throwing maize flour into the Luangwa before crossing it. A woman on a bus wondering why anyone with enough money to fly would deliberately spend a day travelling by road.

The lines gave us a reason to go.

The spaces between them became the journey.

More Than an Itinerary

Twenty-two days, six African countries and thousands of kilometres later, I am less interested in whether the Great Africa Traverse went according to plan than in the fact that it didn’t.

We travelled by train because I love trains.

We flew once because sometimes the sensible decision is more valuable than ideological purity.

We crossed borders on foot and by car. We travelled with local passengers on buses and dala-dalas. We slept above an inland sea and beside a river where elephants walked through our camp. We were soaked at Victoria Falls, thrown around the Zambezi and eventually sat quietly on the same river with a drink in our hands.

Some places were extraordinary.

Others were ordinary.

Both mattered.

That was the journey I wanted: not simply a sequence of African highlights, but enough time on the ground to experience the country that exists between them.

And that, in the end, was the Great Africa Traverse.

Practical Information

Visas & Entry Requirements

Tanzania requires a visa on arrival (USD 50, payable in cash or by card). A yellow fever certificate may be required if arriving from a country where the disease is endemic.

Malawi is visa-free for most European nationals — 79 countries have been exempt since February 2024, with no fee.

Zambia requires a single-entry visa (USD 50) or double-entry (USD 80) paid in USD cash at the border.

The KAZA Univisa (USD 50) covers Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana in a single document — recommended for those visiting both sides of Victoria Falls and Chobe.

Botswana is visa-free for EU nationals.

Carry your passport at all times, along with photocopies stored separately — one in your bag, one in the cloud.

Health

A yellow fever certificate may be required if arriving from a country where the disease is endemic.

Malaria prophylaxis is non-negotiable: begin before departure and continue for four weeks after return.

Recommended vaccinations: typhoid, hepatitis A and hepatitis B.

Lake Malawi carries a bilharzia risk near reed beds and villages — swim only at the designated spots used by established guesthouses.

Bottled water throughout, without exception. SPF 50+ sunscreen is essential under equatorial sun.

Comprehensive travel insurance including medical evacuation is mandatory. On a route through remote valleys, border regions and off-grid communities, the question is not whether you will need it, but whether you want to be covered when you do.

Accommodation

This route passes through a wide range of accommodation types, which is part of its character.

Dar es Salaam: Luther House Hostel. Run by the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Tanzania, Luther House sits on Sokoine Drive in the heart of Dar es Salaam, three minutes’ walk from the Zanzibar ferry terminal.
Stone Town: Treasures of Zanzibar House. A small guesthouse in the heart of Stone Town, perfectly positioned for walking to all major attractions.
Zanzibar east coast: Evergreen Bungalows. A small, family-run beachfront bungalow on the east coast of Zanzibar, set in a palm garden overlooking Bwejuu beach, fine white sand, coconut palms.
Mbeya or Karonga / Chitimba: Beaco Resort, a comfortable mid-range hotel
Livingstonia: Mushroom Farm Eco-Lodge. Bamboo and timber chalets cling to the clifftop at 900 metres, each with vertiginous views across Lake Malawi, which stretches 50 kilometres below. The bar was built for sundowners and delivers on the promise. It has been a fixture on the East Africa backpacker circuit for two decades
Nkhata Bay: Butterfly Space, a non-profit eco-lodge and UK-registered charity set on the rocky shores of Lake Malawi, with the mountains of Nkhata Bay rising behind it. Staying here funds a quiet constellation of community projects, schools, permaculture clubs, women’s groups, and disability centres.
South Luangwa: Flatdogs Camp, Mfuwe, one of the most atmospheric camps in the valley. Originally a backpacker haven opened in 1992, it has grown into a proper safari camp without losing the friendly, chilled atmosphere that made it famous.
Lusaka: StayEasy Hotel, a comfortable mid-range hotel
Livingstone: Jollyboys Backpackers and Camp, Zambia’s first hostel, has been operating since 1995 and is still owner-run. Set in tropical gardens with a swimming pool, right in the heart of Livingstone.

Gastronomy

This journey is a continuous education in East and Southern African food cultures.

Zanzibar: Forodhani Gardens night market, Zanzibar pizza, Urojo soup, grilled mishkaki, fresh seafood
Tanzania: ugali (stiff maize porridge), pilau rice and coastal coconut-based dishes
Malawi: fresh chambo (tilapia) and kampango (catfish) from the lake, eaten at simple lakeshore restaurants in Nkhata Bay
Zambia: nshima, the local staple of maize meal served with relish and vegetables
Livingstone: Olga’s Italian Corner and Cafe Zambezi are institutions for a reason
Botswana (Chobe): buffet lunch at a safari lodge on the river

Currency

Four currencies are involved across the route:

Tanzanian Shilling (TZS) — USD widely accepted in tourist areas
Malawian Kwacha (MWK) — change any remaining MWK before crossing into Zambia; it is not useful afterward
Zambian Kwacha (ZMW) — USD very widely accepted
USD cash — essential for border fees, visas, safari tips and areas without ATMs

No ATMs on the Livingstonia–Nkhata Bay stretch, at the Mchinji border, or in the Mfuwe safari area. Carry sufficient USD cash for these legs. A Wise card is highly recommended for ATM withdrawals across all currencies.

Safety

This route is well-established for independent travellers. The approach is awareness without paranoia: understand the environment, prepare accordingly, and trust that the vast majority of human interactions on this route are warm, helpful and genuinely memorable.

The main risk factors are practical rather than security-related: TAZARA delays (plan for 6–12 hours, occasionally longer), border-crossing times, and the physical demands of the Malawi public transport phase.

In cities, standard urban travel precautions apply
Do not leave valuables unattended in the TAZARA sleeper compartment
The Mchinji border and Chipata–Mfuwe dirt road are standard routes familiar to experienced cross-border drivers
South Luangwa walking safaris are conducted by armed, licensed senior guides — follow instructions immediately and precisely

What to Pack

Pack for a genuine overland expedition, not a resort holiday.

Clothing: neutral colours (khaki, olive, grey) — no bright whites or vivid colours for safari
Sleeping bag liner for the TAZARA sleeper
Waterproof jacket — non-negotiable at Victoria Falls peak flow
Reef-safe sunscreen and SPF 50+ protection
Headlamp and multiple power banks — electricity is unreliable on the train and in some guesthouses
Dry bag for lake activities
USD cash in small denominations
Basic medical kit: oral rehydration salts, blister plasters, standard first-aid supply
Luggage: soft-sided bag, under 15 kg for the domestic flight to/from Mfuwe

And one more thing: a journal. Not a notes app — an actual journal. This journey will give you more than photographs can hold.

Transportation

Phase 1 — TAZARA Railway: Dar es Salaam to Mbeya (~800 km, 18–20 hrs scheduled, delays of 6–12 hrs are common). Book 1st Class 2-berth sleeper 2–3 months in advance at TAZARA Station, Nyerere Road. Depart from the dedicated TAZARA station, not the city’s main central station. Reconfirm 24–48 hours in advance. Service resumed in February 2026 after an 8-month suspension.

Phase 2 — Public Transport (Malawi): Shared taxi Mbeya to Karonga via Songwe border. Minibus Karonga to Chitimba. Motorbike taxi Chitimba to Livingstonia (faster, immediate, unforgettable). Minibus Livingstonia to Nkhata Bay via the lakeshore road. All legs are frequent, affordable and standard in July/August..

Phase 3 — Private Driver: Nkhata Bay to Mchinji border to Chipata to Mfuwe (~700 km). The 04:30 departure from Nkhata Bay is the single most time-sensitive moment of the entire trip.

Phase 4 — Bus/Domestic Flight: The journey from Mfuwe to Lusaka by bus covers approximately 600 kilometres and takes the better part of a day, and it is, in its own way, one of the most revealing stretches of the entire traverse. approximately 8–10 hours. Alternative: Proflight Zambia, Mfuwe to Lusaka. Spectacular aerial views of the Luangwa Valley.

Phase 5 — Bus: UBZ for Lusaka to Livingstone. Comfortable, reliable, approximately 8–10 hours.

Communication

Buy an eSIM card before departure or a local SIM on Day 1 in Dar es Salaam. Coverage is good across Tanzania, with improvements in Zambia and Zimbabwe. Malawi has coverage in main towns but gaps on remote roads and in Livingstonia.

Download offline maps before departure — Google Maps or Maps.me with Tanzania, Malawi and Zambia map packs. These will be your lifeline for navigation in areas without signal.

WhatsApp is the universal communication tool across all five countries: confirm every driver, every lodge arrival and every border crossing by message. Keep your phone charged and your power bank full at all times.

Solidarity & Responsible Tourism

This journey has always been planned with something more in mind than pure adventure. In Lusaka, the itinerary includes a visit to a local solidarity project — a community-supported orphanage, an educational initiative or a social project co-managed by international NGOs and local organisations. Bring a donation rather than gifts.

In Malawi, responsible travel carries particular weight. The country remains one of the poorest in the world, and every choice — local guides, local guesthouses, local food vendors, roadside market stops — translates directly into community income. Simply stopping for lunch or exchanging a few words in Chichewa has a meaning that goes beyond the transaction.

In South Luangwa, Flatdogs Camp supports Conservation South Luangwa (CSL), an NGO focused on anti-poaching and community conservation. The community projects around Mfuwe — Tribal Textiles, Chipembele Conservation Centre, Project Luangwa — are worth a morning of anyone’s time.

Travel that gives something back is not an optional add-on. On a journey like this, across communities like these, it is the only way to travel with integrity.

For information and travel planning: mp@mauriziopittau.it | Travel’s Newsletter: www.mauriziopittau.it/newsletter