InterCity Notte 1963: The Last Great Italian Railway Journey

It is a night train connecting Milan to Palermo, crossing the entire Italian peninsula from north to south. The number 1963 identifies the southbound service (Milan → Palermo). Designed for overnight travel, it allows passengers to fall asleep in northern Italy and wake up the next morning in Sicily.

History

Overnight trains on the Milan–Sicily route date back to the post-World War II period, when railways were the backbone of national transport. For decades, this connection played a crucial role for:

• internal migration flows,
• students and workers living away from home,
• families returning to southern Italy during holidays.

Over time, the service became part of the InterCity Notte network, retaining a strong symbolic value. It has never been just a means of transport, but a shared travel experience for generations of Italians. Despite the rise of high-speed rail and low-cost air travel, the Milan–Palermo night train has survived thanks to both its practicality and its deep historical identity.

Main features

• Overnight journey: evening departure from Milan and arrival in Palermo the following morning.
• Sleeping cars and couchettes, as well as standard seating, to suit different comfort levels and budgets.
• Ferry crossing of the Strait of Messina: the train is loaded onto a ferry between Villa San Giovanni and Messina, a rare and distinctive feature in European rail travel.
• Long-distance route: it crosses multiple Italian regions, connecting major cities and southern towns.
• Classic travel atmosphere: slower than high-speed trains, but chosen for the charm and uniqueness of the journey as much as for necessity.

InterCity Notte 1963 – Milano

The InterCityNotte isn’t a high-speed train. It’s an old-fashioned night train with sleeping cars, couchettes, and basic seats. The sleeping cars are the most comfortable option, with private compartments and real beds. There are also 4-berth Comfort couchettes (cheaper, around €39.90+ per person, with bunks you make up yourself using provided sheets) and Basic seats (not recommended for overnight journeys—always book a sleeper or couchette for safety and comfort).

We’ve booked a 2-bed Relax sleeper (the standard sleeping compartment). Each sleeping car has 12 compartments along a side corridor, with two toilets near the attendant’s compartment at one end. The train also has newer Superior sleepers (formerly “Excelsior”) on some routes, which include private showers and toilets, but these don’t run on the Milano-Palermo route.

Accommodation: Vagone Letto Relax – Doppia Cabina Intera
Cost: €352.80 total (€176.40 per person)

What’s Included in the Sleeper Cabin:

• Private double cabin with two bunks (upper and lower)
• Washbasin with hot and cold water
• Mirror, fold-down table
• Fresh linens, pillow, and duvet (already made up)
• Fresh towel
• Small bottle of drinking water
• 220V power outlet (Italian 2-pin rectangular type—bring an adapter!)
• Secure lock from the inside
• Luggage space: rack above window, large recess above door, floor space
• Comfortable bed (1.90m x 0.70m / 6’3″ x 2’4″)
• Sealed pillow and pillowcase (you open it yourself for maximum hygiene)
• Cotton sheets, duvet with cover, towel, and bedside mat
• Ample luggage storage space
• Reading lamp
• Clothes hanger

Complimentary Amenities and Services: Travel kit (provided in your cabin):

• Hand soap
• Eye mask
• Toothbrush and toothpaste
• Sanitizing wipe
• 500ml water bottle (plus an additional 125ml bottle)
• Special kids’ kit with small surprises (if travelling with children)

Included breakfast service:

• Choice of Illy espresso coffee or cappuccino
• Fruit juice
• Sweet and savory snacks
• Toast with choice of jam or Nutella
• Daily newspaper

Special breakfast options: Request a breakfast-in-bed service from the onboard staff. Choose from Special, Gluten-Free, or Lactose-Free menus and enjoy it at your preferred time.

Wake-up service: Tell the attendant what time you’d like to wake up, and they’ll knock at your requested time.

Minibar cart: Available for purchase during the journey with a wide range of food and beverages.

Onboard staff: Attendants present throughout the entire journey, plus cleaning staff.

Important Note: The compartment transforms for day and night. During the day, the beds fold away and a 3-seat sofa unfolds, creating a private sitting room. At night, the attendant converts it back to sleeping mode. There are two toilets at the end of the corridor, shared with other compartments in the carriage.

The compartment is small, just enough room to stand between the bunks, but it’s ours. The beds are surprisingly comfortable (more so than you’d expect). The window opens just enough to let in the smell of diesel and Italian night air. There’s a connecting door to the adjacent compartment, but it only opens when both sides are unlocked—so your privacy is secure.

At precisely 20:10, the train lurches forward. No fanfare. No announcements. Just the slow, grinding acceleration as we pull away from Milano and into the darkness. No Check-In, No Security: Unlike air travel, there’s no check-in for European trains. Just walk into Milano Centrale, find Platform 10 on the departure boards, and board. The doors close about 1 minute before departure. Bring your ticket (printed or on your phone—it’s ticketless), your luggage, and yourself. That’s it.

The sleeper attendant, usually gruff but competent, will check your ticket in the corridor after departure and show you to your compartment if you’re unsure. They’ll also explain when breakfast will be served and when to expect the ferry crossing.

The Route: A Geography Lesson by Rail

The InterCityNotte 1963 doesn’t take the fast route. It takes the real route, the one that stitches together Italy’s story.

Itinerario ferroviario: Milano Centrale → Palermo Centrale

• Milano Centrale — Partenza: 20:10
• Piacenza — Arrivo: 21:05 · Partenza: 21:07 (Emilia-Romagna’s gateway)
• Fidenza — Arrivo: 21:29 · Partenza: 21:31
• Parma — Arrivo: 21:47 · Partenza: 21:49 (home of Parmigiano-Reggiano and prosciutto)
• Reggio Emilia — Arrivo: 22:09 · Partenza: 22:11
• Modena — Arrivo: 22:31 · Partenza: 22:33 (balsamic vinegar capital)
• Bologna Centrale — Arrivo: 23:02 · Partenza: 23:05
• Prato Centrale — Arrivo: 23:51 · Partenza: 23:53 (Tuscany begins)
• Firenze Campo di Marte — Arrivo: 00:09 · Partenza: 00:12
• Salerno — Arrivo: 06:13
• Battipaglia — Arrivo: 06:28 (the last town in Campania)
• Agropoli-Castellabate — Arrivo: 06:45
• Vallo della Lucania-Castelnuovo — Arrivo: 07:01
• Ascea — Arrivo: 07:09
• Pisciotta-Palinuro — Arrivo: 07:19
• Sapri — Arrivo: 07:41
• Maratea — Arrivo: 07:54 (entering Basilicata—the turquoise Grotta Azzurra is visible from the train)
• Scalea–S. Domenica Talao — Arrivo: 08:09 (entering Calabria—white houses cascading down cliffs)
• Paola — Arrivo: 08:43 (Calabria’s pilgrimage town)
• Amantea — Arrivo: 09:01
• Lamezia Terme Centrale — Arrivo: 09:33 (Calabria’s main airport station)
• Vibo Valentia-Pizzo — Arrivo: 09:59
• Rosarno — Arrivo: 10:22
• Gioia Tauro — Arrivo: 10:30
• Villa S. Giovanni — Arrivo: 11:00
• Messina Centrale — Arrivo: 12:45 (long stop, 30 minutes—passengers can briefly step onto the platform)
• Milazzo — Arrivo: 13:41 (the gateway to the Aeolian Islands)
• Barcellona-Castroreale — Arrivo: 13:48
• Patti–S. Piero Patti — Arrivo: 14:02
• Capo d’Orlando — Arrivo: 14:27 (small seaside village rich in archaeological remains.)
• S. Agata di Militello — Arrivo: 14:45
• Cefalù — Arrivo: 15:57 (A seaside village with ancient houses facing the sea, set within the Madonie Park.)
• Termini Imerese — Arrivo: 16:17
• Palermo Centrale — Arrivo: 16:55ish (The Sicilian capital is a wonderful city with a thousand faces, full of art and culture, and with a beautiful sea.)

InterCity Notte 1963 – Firenze

Day 1: Milano

Morning/Afternoon: Visit Milan

Spend your morning in Milan exploring the historic heart of the city, starting with the Duomo di Milano, climbing to the terraces for panoramic views, and walking through the elegant Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Continue toward Castello Sforzesco and enjoy a relaxing stroll in Parco Sempione, perfect for a coffee break and a taste of local life. In the afternoon, head to the Brera district, known for its charming streets, art galleries, and cosy cafés, ideal for a light lunch or aperitivo.

Evening: Italian Dinner

Dinner: Ristorante da Giannino dal 1899
Location: Via Amatore Sciesa 8 (15-minute walk from Centrale)

What to Order:

• Risotto alla milanese (saffron risotto with ossobuco marrow) – €18
• Cotoletta alla milanese (breaded veal cutlet, the size of your face) – €22
• House wine – €15

Total: ~€30 per person

This is old-school Milanese cuisine in a wood-panelled dining room. No tourists, just locals who’ve been coming here since their grandparents’ time.

By 19:30, we’ll return to the station, collect our bags, and make our way to Platform 10, where the InterCityNotte 1963 is waiting.

Night 1-Day 2: The 21-Hour Journey

20:10 – Departure from Milano Centrale

The train is long—13 carriages stretching the length of the platform. Ours is Car 5, a Vagone Letto Relax sleeping car (formerly branded “Deluxe” until 2024).

InterCity Notte 1963 – Salerno

Morning: Waking to the South

Around 6:00 AM, the train arrives in Salerno, a gateway to the Amalfi Coast. From here, everything changes. The landscape shifts from rolling Tuscan hills to dramatic coastal cliffs. The train hugs the Tyrrhenian Sea, threading between mountains and water. On our left, the Mediterranean—impossibly blue, dotted with fishing boats. On our right, terraced lemon groves climb steep hillsides.

We’ll be awake by now, faces pressed against the window, watching the coast unfold. This is the stretch tourists never see—the Italy of small towns, sunbaked stations, and old men smoking on benches.

10:40 – The Ferry Crossing: The Heart of the Journey

At approximately 10:40, the train rolls into Villa San Giovanni on the Calabrian coast. And here, something extraordinary happens.

The entire train is loaded onto a ferry. The Strait of Messina, just 3 kilometres wide but deep and treacherous, separates mainland Italy from Sicily. For over a century, trains have crossed it this way. The train rolls onto a massive ferry, the gates close, and the engines roar to life.

We’re invited, no, encouraged, to leave our cabin and stand on the ferry deck. The crossing takes 20-30 minutes, and it’s the most romantic moment of the entire journey. During the short train/ferry crossing across the Strait of Messina, you can enjoy typical local products at the onboard bar, such as the famous Sicilian arancini and cannoli.

What You’ll See:

• The Calabrian mountains receded behind us
• The hills of Sicily rising ahead in the morning haze
• The water is an impossible shade of blue—turquoise, cobalt, cerulean
• Dolphins (if we’re lucky) surfacing alongside the ferry
• The wind smells of salt, seaweed, and adventure

Greek myths placed Scylla and Charybdis here, monsters that devoured sailors. Today, the ferry crosses every 20 minutes, mundane and magical at once. This crossing is endangered. The proposed Messina Bridge, a 3.3-kilometre suspension span, has been debated for decades. If built, it would eliminate the ferry, speed up the route, and erase this moment forever.

At approximately 11:05, the ferry docks in Messina. The train reassembles, and we continue along Sicily’s northern coast.

A Note on Timing: InterCity Notte trains can run on time, but they can also run up to 1-2 hours late or more. This is Italy. Delays happen. Don’t book a tight connection in Palermo. Build in buffer time. Accept the unpredictability as part of the adventure.

Afternoon: The Final Stretch Across Sicily

The train splits in Sicily. Half continues to Siracusa (arriving 15:48). Our half turns west toward Palermo. After 20 hours and 45 minutes, we step onto the platform in Palermo, dishevelled, bleary-eyed, and utterly transformed.

InterCity Notte 1963 – Palermo

Days 2-3: Palermo, Sicily’s Chaotic Heart

Where We’re Staying: Palazzo Natoli Boutique Hotel

Palazzo Natoli Boutique Hotel
Location: Via Cavour 6, Palermo (historic centre)

Why This Hotel:

• 18th-century palazzo with frescoed ceilings and terracotta floors
• Hidden courtyard with lemon trees
• Walking distance to Quattro Canti, Norman Palace, and markets
• Breakfast included (fresh cannoli, granita, espresso)
• Rooftop terrace with views over Palermo’s rooftops

We’ll check in around 17:30, shower off 21 hours of train grime, and step into Palermo’s chaotic embrace.
Sunday Evening: First Impressions
Walk: Palazzo Natoli → Quattro Canti (5 minutes)

The Quattro Canti (Four Corners) is Palermo’s baroque heart—four curved façades adorned with fountains and statues. Nearby, the Piazza Pretoria gleams with its grand fountain, locals gathering as the sun sets.

Aperitivo: Bar Santoro
Location: Via Maqueda 172

What to Order:

• Aperol Spritz (€5)
• Arancini (fried rice balls with ragù) – €2.50 each
• Panelle (chickpea fritters) – €1.50

We’ll sit outside, watching Palermo come alive—Vespas roaring, vendors shouting, the city vibrating with energy.

Dinner: Trattoria Ai Cascinari
Location: Via D’Ossuna 43 (20-minute walk from the centre)

What to Order:

• Pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, raisins) – €12
• Involtini di pesce spada (swordfish rolls stuffed with breadcrumbs, capers, pine nuts) – €14
• House red wine (carafe) – €8
• Cassata siciliana (sponge cake with ricotta and candied fruit) – €5

Total: €20

This is family-run, no-frills Sicilian cooking. Checked tablecloths, exposed brick, locals at every table. We’ll leave full and happy.

Day 3: Palermo’s Treasures

9:00 – Norman Palace and Cappella Palatina
Palazzo dei Normanni
Cost: €12 per person (includes palace and chapel)
Time: 2 hours

The Cappella Palatina is one of the world’s great artistic treasures—a 12th-century chapel adorned with golden Byzantine mosaics. Walking inside is like stepping into a jewel box. Every surface—walls, ceilings, columns—shimmers with gold, depicting Christ, saints, and Norman kings.

11:30 – Palermo Cathedral
Cattedrale di Palermo
Cost: €5 for rooftop access
Time: 1 hour

A Norman-Arab-Byzantine architectural marvel. The exterior is a riot of styles—pointed arches, geometric patterns, Gothic spires. The rooftop offers panoramic views over the city, mountains, and sea.

12:45 – Lunch at Mercato di Ballarò
Mercato di Ballarò
Location: Piazza Ballarò

Palermo’s oldest street market. The air smells of fish, citrus, frying oil, and spices. We’ll eat standing:

• Arancini from a stall – €2.50 each (get two: one with ragù, one with butter and ham)
• Sfincione (Sicilian pizza: thick dough, tomato, onions, breadcrumbs) – €3
• Panelle (chickpea fritters) – €1.50
• Fresh orange juice – €2

Total: €6. Best lunch of the trip.

15:00 – Teatro Massimo
Teatro Massimo
Cost: €8 for guided tour
Time: 1 hour

Italy’s largest opera house. The final scene of The Godfather: Part III was filmed on the front steps. The velvet-lined halls are breathtaking.

16:30 – Wander La Vucciria

Once Palermo’s main market, it is now an emerging nightlife neighbourhood. Narrow streets, graffiti murals, and afternoon shadows. We’ll stop for granita (shaved ice with lemon or almond) at I Segreti del Chiostro (€3).

19:30 – Dinner at Osteria Ballarò
Osteria Ballarò
Location: Via Calascibetta 25

What to Order:

• Caponata (sweet and sour eggplant with tomato, celery, capers, olives) – €8
• Pasta alla Norma (pasta with eggplant, tomato, ricotta salata) – €10
• Grilled swordfish – €14
• House white wine (Grillo) – €12

Total: €22.5

Handwritten menu. Local clientele. Exceptional food. The caponata is the best we’ll ever taste.

21:30 – Cannoli from Pasticceria Cappello
Pasticceria Cappello
Location: Via Colonna Rotta 68
What to Buy: Cannoli (€3 each)

Crispy shell, sweet ricotta filling, pistachios. We’ll eat them while walking back to the hotel, sugar dusting our shirts.

Day 4: Beaches, Art, and Final Meals

9:30 – Mondello Beach
Bus 806 from Via della Libertà (€1.50, 25 minutes)

Mondello is a crescent of white sand and turquoise water, framed by rocky headlands. Art Nouveau bathing huts dot the beach, painted in pastel colours. We’ll swim, dry in the sun, and wander the villa district—a faded 1920s resort town.

13:00 – Lunch at Alle Terrazze
Alle Terrazze
Location: Viale Regina Elena (on Mondello beach)

What to Order:

• Spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams, white wine, parsley) – €14
• Gamberoni alla griglia (grilled prawns with lemon) – €18
• White wine (local Grillo) – €12
• Affogato (espresso poured over gelato) – €5

Total: €25

Fresh fish. Cold wine. Perfect view.

16:00 – Return to Palermo: Oratorio di San Lorenzo
Oratorio di San Lorenzo
Cost: €5
Time: 30 minutes

A baroque oratory with stucco decorations by Giacomo Serpotta. A copy of Caravaggio’s Nativity hangs here (the original was stolen in 1969 and never recovered).

17:00 – Explore the Kalsa District

Palermo’s medieval heart. Narrow streets, crumbling palazzos, hidden churches. We’ll get lost on purpose.

19:30 – Final Dinner at Gagini Social Restaurant
Gagini Social Restaurant
Location: Via dei Cassari 35
Cost: €45 per person (tasting menu)

For our final night, we’re splurging. Creative Sicilian cuisine in a beautiful setting. The tasting menu includes:

• Sea urchin pasta
• Tuna tartare with Sicilian citrus
• Lamb with pistachio crust
• Deconstructed cassata

Total: €45, plus wine

21:00 – Pack and Depart for Airport
Taxi to Palermo Airport (€35, 30 minutes). Our flight leaves at 22:40.

In a world obsessed with speed, the Milano-Palermo night train is an anachronism. It’s slow, uncomfortable, and economically irrational.

And that’s precisely why it’s magnificent.

This train forces you to slow down. To watch the landscape change. To talk to strangers in the corridor. To stand on a ferry deck and feel the wind.

The InterCity doesn’t just carry passengers, it carries the weight of Italian history. From the 1950s through the 1970s, this route (and others like it) carried millions of Southerners northward in search of factory work. The treno del sole—the “sun train”—they called it, though there was little sun in those third-class compartments packed with families, suitcases tied with rope, and dreams. Today, the train carries fewer migrants and more tourists. But the carriages are still old. The attendants are still gruff. The journey is still hard. And it’s vanishing.

Low-cost airlines undercut the price. High-speed rail undercuts the time. The Messina Bridge, if built, will eliminate the ferry crossing, one of Europe’s last working train ferries.

One day, this train will make its final run. The ferry will become a museum piece. The route will disappear.

But not yet. Not in April 2026.

Symbolic value

The InterCity Notte 1963 is often described as the train of an Italy that travels while it sleeps, a steel thread linking different cultures, landscapes, and life stories. For many passengers, it is not just a train, but a piece of collective memory, filled with suitcases, quiet corridors, dawn over the Strait, and the emotion of arriving in Sicily.

InterCity Notte 1963 – Interni

How to Survive (and Love) 21 Hours on a Train

What to Bring:

• Food and Wine: There’s no dining car on InterCityNotte trains (unlike some luxury sleeper services). Before boarding, buy supplies from Eataly Milano Smeraldo (Via Nino Bixio 9, 5-minute walk from Centrale) or the shop inside the station. Essentials: bread, cheese, prosciutto, olives, fruit, chocolate, and a bottle of Italian red wine. Your sleeper fare includes a light breakfast (espresso, juice, snack) served by the attendant in the morning, but you’re on your own for dinner.
• Italian 2-pin Power Adapter: The cabin has a 220V outlet, but it’s the Italian rectangular 2-pin type (not the round Europlug). Bring the correct adapter or a universal one. Also, bring a power bank as backup.
• Books: We suggest The Leopard by Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa (set in Sicily, perfect thematic reading), and Christ Stopped at Eboli by Carlo Levi (about Southern Italy). A long novel, poetry, or travel writing makes the journey meditative.
• Earplugs and Eye Mask: The train stops frequently at night (Bologna, Florence, Rome, Salerno). Brakes squeal. Passengers talk in corridors. Announcements crackle over the PA. Sleep is possible, but earplugs and an eye mask make it much better.
• Comfortable Clothes: Change into something loose. Pyjamas are acceptable; no one will judge you. This is a sleeper train, not a cocktail party.
• Toiletries: A towel and a basic amenities kit (soap, toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes) are provided, but bring your own if you’re particular. The shared toilets at the end of the corridor have sinks, but there are no showers on this route.
• Journal: This journey deserves to be written down. Bring a notebook.

How to Pass the Time:

• Sleep (Milano to Rome): Between Milano (20:10) and Rome (around 06:00), you’ll sleep surprisingly well. The rocking motion is hypnotic. The beds, though narrow, are comfortable. Close the curtains, lock the door, and let the rails sing you to sleep.
• Watch the Coast (Salerno to Messina): From Salerno onward (around 06:28), the train hugs the Tyrrhenian coast. This is the most spectacular part of the journey: dramatic cliffs, turquoise water, and terraced lemon groves. Don’t sleep through this. Sit by the window with your coffee and watch Italy unfold.
• Talk to Fellow Passengers: Italians on sleeper trains are often heading home to the South. They’re friendly, curious, and eager to practice English (or teach you Italian). The corridor and the brief station stops are social spaces. Strike up a conversation.
• Ferry Crossing: This is the moment. Around 10:40, the train boards the ferry at Villa San Giovanni. The attendant will announce when passengers can leave the train and go on deck. Do it. Stand outside, breathe the salt air, watch Sicily appear. This 20-30 minute crossing is the soul of the journey.

InterCity Notte 1963 – Interni

Practical Tips for This Journey

1. Book Early: Sleeper cabins sell out 2-3 months in advance. Booking typically opens up to 4 months ahead (but sleeper trains often load later than high-speed trains, so don’t panic if they don’t appear immediately). Book via Trenitalia.com or easier-to-use English sites like ItaliaRail.com, Trainline.com, or RailEurope.com.
2. Choose the Right Direction: f you have to pick which direction of the InterCity Notte to travel, we recommend taking the southbound service from Milan to Palermo (ICN 1963) rather than the northbound Palermo-to-Milan train (ICN 1964). There are two key reasons for this:a) Scenic daylight views along the Tyrrhenian coast: the Milan departure is in the evening, so after waking up the next morning you’ll be passing along the most spectacular stretches of the Italian Tyrrhenian coastline — from Salerno through Calabria and up into Sicily — at a time when you can actually see the sea and dramatic landscapes from your window. By contrast, the Palermo-to-Milan train leaves Palermo around midday and gets into many of those same coastal sections later in the day or afternoon, when light and visibility are less ideal for enjoying the views.

   b) Cultural and historical atmosphere: historically, the southbound Milano-to-Palermo route was known as a “happiness route” for southern Italian families traveling from the north back home in the south for holidays or festivities, giving it a more celebratory and uplifting feel. The northbound Palermo-to-Milano direction historically had a different emotional context, carrying southern workers to jobs in the north, often under more serious circumstances. This heritage gives the southbound journey an added resonance for many travellers.

3. Wake Up for the Sunrise over Calabria: Between 07:30 and 09:00, the train runs along the Calabrian coast. The sun rises over the Ionian Sea. It’s spectacular. Set an alarm.
4. Understand Berth Numbering/ No Check-In Required: When you book, you’ll see your berth numbers before paying. In a 2-bed sleeper, if you book berths 21 and 25, you’re in the same compartment (compartment numbers share the first digit, and in doubles, the middle bed isn’t used). Connecting compartments are 21-23-25 and 22-24-26. Like all European trains, just arrive at the station, find your platform (check departure boards), and board. Doors close about 1 minute before departure. No baggage checks, no security lines.
5. Pack Light: One carry-on per person. The cabin has good luggage space (a rack above the window, a large recess above the door, and floor space), but manoeuvring in tight spaces is easier with less.
6. WiFi: There’s no WiFi, but 3G/4G (and occasionally 5G) works through most of Italy.
7. Expect Delays: InterCity Notte trains may run up to 1-2 hours late. Factor this into any onward connections. Don’t book a tight connection in Palermo.
8. Enjoy Typical Local Products During Ferry Crossing: The ferry is well-known for the delicious Sicilian arancini and cannoli.
9. Cash for Markets: Bring €50-100 in small bills. Market vendors in Palermo don’t always take cards.
10. Learn Basic Italian: “Buongiorno” (good morning), “grazie” (thank you), “dov’è il bagno?” (Where’s the bathroom?) will serve you well. Train attendants appreciate the effort.

Risks and Warnings

• Expect Delays: InterCity Notte trains may run up to 1-2 hours late. Factor this into any onward connections. Don’t book a tight connection in Palermo.
• The Train is Noisy and Uncomfortable: This isn’t the Orient Express. The carriages are old. The beds are narrow. The train rocks and shakes. If you need perfect rest, take a plane.
• Cabin Security: Lock your cabin door from the inside at night. Keep valuables with you (passport, wallet, phone).
• No WiFi, No Dining Car: The train has neither WiFi nor a dining car. Bring books, downloaded music, and food.
• Palermo is Chaotic: Traffic is heavy. Streets are chaotic. Sidewalks are narrow. Watch where you step. Beware of scooters (they don’t stop).
• Pickpockets: Like any major city, watch for pickpockets in markets and crowded tourist areas. Keep your wallet secure.