Tracks to Trails: A Rail and Hiking Journey from the Balkans to Georgia’s Caucasus

The journey starts from Dublin with a flight to Sofia, Bulgaria. From there, it’s an epic rail route through the Balkans and Anatolia: the legendary Sofia–Istanbul Express, the high-speed train to Ankara, and then the romantic, slow-paced Dogu Express to Kars, deep in eastern Turkey. A scenic bus ride brings you across the border into Georgia — a country where medieval towers meet snow-capped peaks.

But the real heart of the adventure lies in the mountains: a 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli, through the dramatic Svaneti region. Expect glacial rivers, ancient stone villages, and soaring Caucasus ridgelines — all while staying in cozy guesthouses and tasting Georgia’s rich food and wine culture.

The journey wraps up in the vibrant streets of Tbilisi, Georgia’s eclectic capital, before returning home to Dublin. In just under two weeks, you’ll cross five countries, ride historic trains, hike wild trails, and witness some of the most jaw-dropping scenery in Europe and beyond.

Trip Highlights:

• Cross 5 countries overland: Ireland, Bulgaria, Turkey, Georgia, and back
• Ride the iconic Dogu Express from Ankara to Kars
• Trek for 4 days through the remote Svaneti mountains from Mestia to Ushguli
• Explore the cultural contrasts of Sofia, Istanbul, Ankara, Tbilisi and Batumi .
• Taste Georgian wine, Turkish tea, and Balkan street food
• Stay in family-run guesthouses and mountain homestays
• Travel slow and off the beaten path

Sat 02/08/2025 Day 1: Dublin to Sofia (Flight)

• Flight: Depart from Dublin Airport to Sofia, Bulgaria.
• Ryanair FR5203 | Operated by Buzz. Ryanair. Departing Dublin, 19:10. Arriving at Sofia, 00:50 on 3 August 2025. It arrives one day later. It is a direct flight, lasting 3 hours and 40 minutes.
• Arrival: Arrive in Sofia and check into the accommodation.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Sun 03/08/2025 Day 2: Sofia to Istanbul (Overnight Train)

• Morning: Enjoy a leisurely breakfast and some sightseeing in Sofia. Explore Sofia’s city centre, visiting landmarks like Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and Vitosha Boulevard.
• Evening: Board the Sofia-Istanbul Express night train at 18:40 from Sofia Central Station. The train arrives at Istanbul’s Halkalı station at 05:34 the following morning. Reservations are compulsory and can be made at the station.
• Accommodation: Train

Mon 04/08/2025 Day 3: Istanbul to Ankara (Overnight Train, Ankara Ekspresi)

• Morning/Afternoon: Leave the baggage at the Halkalı station and use the Marmaray metro line to visit the city.
• Evening: Take the train to Ankara. The train departs Istanbul Halkalı at 22:00 and, barring any delays, arrives in Ankara at 06:58 the following morning after covering a distance of 576 kilometres (352 miles).
• Accommodation: Train

Tue 05/08/2025  Day 4: Ankara to Kars (Overnight Train, Dogu Express)

• Morning/Afternoon: Leave the baggage at the Ankara station and visit the city.
• Evening: Board the Doğu Ekspresi (Eastern Express) from Ankara to Kars. The train departs at 18:00 and arrives at 20:10 the day after. The journey takes about 26 hours for 1310 km.
• Accommodation: Train

Wed 06/08/2025 Day 5: Kars to Tbilisi

• Evening: Arrive in Kars and transfer to our accommodation.
• Next Morning: Take a direct bus from Kars to Tbilisi, operated by companies like VIP Turizm. The journey takes approximately 9 hours, and buses depart at 09:00. It is recommended that you confirm schedules in advance.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Thu 07/08/2025 Day 6: Tbilisi

• Morning / Evening: Explore Tbilisi’s Old Town, including sites like the Narikala Fortress and sulfur baths.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Fri 08/08/2025 Day 6: Tbilisi to Mestia

• Morning: Take a shared minibus or private transfer to Mestia.
• Evening: Arrive in Mestia and prepare for your trekking adventure.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Sat – Tue 09-13/08/2025 Days 8–11: Trekking from Mestia to Ushguli

Embark on a 4-day trek through the stunning Svaneti region, One of the most iconic multi-day hikes in the Caucasus, suitable for intermediate trekkers. It can be self-guided (well-marked trails, locals used to hikers). Explore Mestia, visit the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography.

Sat 09/08/2025 Day 1: Mestia to Zhabeshi (~16 km, 6.5 hours).

• Distance: 16 km | Ascent: ~450m
• Duration: 6–7 hours
• Landscape: Rolling hills, alpine meadows, small rivers, and towers in Mestia.
• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
• Highlights: Scenic trails through forests and meadows; overnight in Zhabeshi.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Sun 10/08/2025 Day 2: Zhabeshi to Adishi (~12 km, 6.5 hours).

• Distance: 10 km | Ascent: ~600m
• Duration: 6 hours
• Landscape: Wooded slopes, river crossings, traditional Svan towers.
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Highlights: Panoramic views of Mount Tetnuldi; overnight in Adishi.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Mon 11/08/2025 Day 3: Adishi to Iprali (~17 km, 7 hours).

• Distance: 17 km | Ascent: ~800m / Descent: 1100m
• Duration: 7–8 hours
• Landscape: Glaciers, Adishi river crossing (sometimes on horseback), panoramic high passes.
• Difficulty: Hardest day, high altitude and long.
• Highlights: Panoramic views of Mount Tetnuldi; overnight in Adishi.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Tue12/08/2025 Day 4: Iprali to Ushguli (~12 km, 6 hours).

• Distance: 12 km | Ascent: ~400m
• Duration: 5 hours
• Landscape: Open valleys, hilltop views of Ushguli’s medieval towers.
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Highlights: Crossing the Adishi Glacier river; arrival in Ushguli, one of Europe’s highest inhabited villages.
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Wed 13/08/2025 Day 12: Ushguli – Mestia

• Morning / Evening: Explore Ushguli, visiting landmarks like the Lamaria Church.
• Afternoon: Take a shared minibus or private transfer back to Mestia
• Accommodation: Guesthouse

Thu 14/08/2025 Day 13: Mestia – Batumi

• Morning: Take a shared minibus or private transfer to continue to Batumi. The journey can take up to 6 hours.
• Accommodation: Hotel

Fri 15/08/2025 Day 14: Batumi 

• Morning / Evening: Visit Batumi
• Accommodation: Hotel

Sat 16/08/2025 Day 15: Batumi – Istanbul 

Practical Information

Accommodation

• Mestia & Ushguli: Family-run guesthouses offering meals and basic amenities.

• Tbilisi: Options range from budget hostels to boutique hotels.

Gastronomy

• Must-Try Dishes: Khinkali (dumplings), Khachapuri (cheese-filled bread), and local wines.

• Dining: Tbilisi boasts a vibrant food scene with numerous restaurants and cafes.

Currency

• Local Currency: Georgian Lari (GEL).

• Exchange: ATMS are widely available; credit cards are accepted in cities.

Safety

• General: Georgia is considered safe for travellers.

• Regions to Avoid: Advised against travel to South Ossetia and Abkhazia due to political tensions.

What to Pack

• Trekking Gear: Hiking boots, weather-appropriate clothing, and a backpack.

• Trekking Essentials:
  • Lightweight hiking boots (broken-in!)
  • Trekking poles
  • Daypack with rain cover
  • Layers (nights get chilly even in August)
  • Waterproof jacket and pants
  • Water purification tablets/filter
  • Headlamp, snacks, refillable bottle
  • Blister kit + basic meds
  • Sunscreen + hat
  • Power bank

• Essentials: Travel insurance

Transportation

• Domestic Flights: Tbilisi to Mestia flights are available but may be weather-dependent.

• Local Transport: Marshrutkas (minibuses) and taxis are common; car rentals are available.